Copy
Digestible Bits and Bites #96, April 2021

Digestible Bits and Bites

The monthly newsletter of the
Culinary Historians of Canada
Number 96, April 2021
Share Share
Tweet Tweet
Forward Forward
Pin Pin
+1 +1
CHC member Mark D'Aguilar, with his delicious-looking “Jewish penicillin” (a.k.a. chicken soup with matzoh balls), was one of the participants in our Jewish-themed March cooking challenge (see more below).

 

Index

  1. CHC News & Upcoming Events

  2. News & Opportunities

  3. Destinations

  4. Food for Thought (book reviews)

  5. Events of Interest

  6. International Conferences


1. CHC News and Upcoming Events



Take Five for 50—or 4,500!

On Thursday, April 15 at 8:30 p.m. EDT, CHC presents The Canadian Archaeologist Who Collected 4,500 Beer Cans, a presentation by archaeologist and collector Dr. David Maxwell, who'll discuss what he's learned about contemporary culture from discarded beer cans of the past.

As a young anthropologist and archaeologist, Dr. Maxwell studied Mayan votive offerings, but not all cultural relics have to be ancient, as he discovered when, at the age of 11, he started collecting beer cans discarded on the side of the road. These cans sparked an interest in the history of the cans themselves, the beer and the brewing companies. The collection led to a fascination with and understanding of our society's changing approach to litter, recycling and what we define as "garbage." It has ultimately become a lifelong passion, swelling to over 4,500 cans—now whittled down to just under 2,000 due to storage constraints. Grab a cold one and join us for an evening chat about the most Canadian of topics—beer!

Dr. Maxwell is a lecturer in archaeology at Simon Fraser University (SFU) in Burnaby, B.C. He will discuss his research and share stories about collecting and his interactions with other researchers over the years—and, of course, share highlights of his unique collection with us. A Q&A will follow.


Admission: $18.59 ($11.54 for CHC members). Tickets are available on Eventbrite. Save on this ticket price and admission to future events by becoming a CHC member for only $30 today!
 

The Edible Future?

Save the date! On Thursday, May 13 at 8:00 p.m. EDT, CHC welcomes authors Ian Mosby and Sarah Rotz to discuss their new book Uncertain Harvest: The Future of Food on a Warming Planet.

In a world expected to reach a staggering population of 10 billion by 2050, and with global temperatures rising fast, they believe that humanity must fundamentally change the way it grows and consumes food. Uncertain Harvest brings together scientists, chefs, activists, entrepreneurs, farmers, philosophers and engineers working on the global future of food to answer questions on how to make a more equitable, safe, sustainable and plentiful food future.

Mosby, an award-winning historian of food and nutrition, and Rotz, an assistant professor in the Department of Social Sciences at Toronto's York University, look to the past to help us better understand our culinary future. They explore our ongoing history of mostly failed predictions and use that to look at contemporary predictions of a food future dominated by robot farms, cultured meats and photosynthesis-hacked GM rice. Join us for an engaging Zoom presentation by the two authors, followed by a Q&A period.


Admission: $18.59 ($11.54 for CHC members). Tickets are available on Eventbrite. Save on this ticket price and admission to future events by becoming a CHC member for only $30 today!
 

Rural Women's Studies Association Conference

From May 11 to 15, the University of Guelph hosts Kitchen Table Talk to Global Forum, the 14th triennial conference of the Rural Women's Studies Association (RWSA). The RWSA is an international association that shares knowledge about rural women, food and such other issues as activism, feminism, social justice, mental health, innovation, community development and cultural expression.

CHC is excited to sponsor four panels featuring presentations by CHC members. The topics of their papers range from rural recipe collections to wartime food-supply activism and studies of historical newspaper columns. The CHC sessions are: Conference registration is now open; it closes on May 9. Admission for the full conference is $87 + HST. One-day admission is $35 + HST. Along with the virtual sessions, plenaries and keynotes, attendees will enjoy performances and receive an e-version of the RWSA cookbook.
 

Charoset Truffles Report

by Ivy Lerner-Frank

CHC joined forces with the Montreal-based group The Wandering Chew on Sunday, March 21, for Charoset Truffles Around the World, an afternoon workshop showcasing the fruit and nut pastes served at the Passover table to evoke the mortar used by Jewish slaves when building the Egyptian pyramids. A Montreal-based, woman-owned not-for-profit dedicated to preserving and revitalizing Jewish food traditions, The Wandering Chew team simultaneously demonstrated the recipes and wove stories of the Iraqi, Moroccan and Curaçao Jewish communities whose dishes were featured in the session.

CHC member and Wandering Chew co-founder Kat Romanow led the multiple-screen workshop along with co-founder Sydney Warshaw, while fellow Wanderer Gillian Sonin managed the technical aspects (and active Zoom chat), guiding over 40 international and Canadian participants to chop, mince, mix and roll dried fruit and nuts into delectable truffles. Participants left the 90-minute session with plates of treats elegant enough to grace a Seder table or serve as energy balls for busy days.

 

A wooden box of quince cheese (also known as cotignac or membrillo): detail from a painting titled "Stillleben mit Papagei" (Still Life with Parrot) by Georg Flegel, ca 1620 (Alte Pinakothek, Munich).

Marmalade Mavens Report
On Thursday, March 4, CHC member Sarah Hood offered a presentation, called Marmalade Mavens, about the evolution of marmalade and the famous brands that arose through the 19th century (mostly to be subsumed by giant multinationals in the late 20th).

More than 50 participants listened, asked questions and joined in a discussion that included: the development of our modern sweet orange spread from a thick quince jelly (as pictured above); and touched on such topics as the utopian workers' villages constructed by some benevolent 19th-century business owners like William Pickles Hartley and the Chivers family; and the pottery industry that sprang up to accommodate preserve-makers shipping millions of jars every year.

Those who registered for the talk also received a discount code for Sarah's upcoming book, Jam, Jelly and Marmalade: A Global History, which will be released in June and is now available for preorder via the University of Chicago Press.

 
You're Invited!
On the 10th of every month, CHC board meetings are open to any member in good standing who'd like to meet other culinary historians, find out more about upcoming plans, have a say in decision-making and participate in organizing our events and activities.

The meetings are held via Zoom. If you'd like to attend one, contact CHC president Carolyn Crawford at carolyn@culinaryhistorians.ca.
 

April Cooking Challenge: Package-Label Recipes

Be honest now: when you want to bake chocolate-chip cookies, is your go-to recipe the one printed on the chocolate chips packet? Do you love the brownies recipe on the cocoa tin? (Your newsletter editor will readily confess that she missed a certain 1970s date-loaf recipe so much that she wrote to the Red River Cereal folks in the '90s to retrieve it.)

If your family cherishes a recipe printed on a product label or saved from a pamphlet issued by a food company, we want to see it this month. If you don't, perhaps you might want to try a retro recipe like the Campbell's Soup Swedish Meatballs (pictured above) from page 33 of the February 1959 issue of Chatelaine. Or step further back in time to explore the 1924 pamphlet Good Things to Eat Made with Cow Brand Baking Soda.


Those who post photos and comments with the hashtag #label on our Facebook page by midnight on Friday, April 23, will be featured in the May newsletter. 
 


Jewish Cooking Challenge Participants

To tie in with our charoset workshop, we challenged you to cook or bake something from the rich repertoire of Jewish foods. Shelley Posen (whose baking is pictured above) asked, "Do hamentashen count?" Indeed they do!



Shelley also writes: "No good matzoh balls without good schmaltz. The revelation this year—not to cut up the chicken skin raw: it’s a difficult, awkward, unpleasant job. Put it in a pan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. When it’s nicely simmering, then you cut up the pieces—and with scissors. Piece of cake! From there to rendering is a steady simmer, then on to fry; and once it’s reached gribn stage (your spelling may differ), you add raw chopped onion and sizzle to golden. Sieve into a bowl [as pictured above] and voila! Ready for matzoh balls! (What you do with the gribn is up to you, your conscience, and your waistline.)



Our members and friends explored a myriad of other delectable treats from the Jewish culinary repertoire. Ellen Pekilis prepared Alice Medrich’s Italian Chocolate Almond Torte from her Pure Desserts book. Ellen writes that "Medrich credits the recipe in turn to Claudia Roden from The Book of Jewish Food. I noticed years ago that it would make a perfect Passover dessert as it has neither flour nor leavener. For Passover, I simply drop the ¼ tsp of cream of tartar when beating the egg whites, cross my fingers and hope for the best. It’s fine. More than fine. Delicious."



Stephanie Thomas made Montreal-style bagels, she says, "because it was the one Jewish recipe where I had all of the ingredients. There is one twist. The only honey I had was avocado honey, which is a very dark brown and, to me, not as sweet as my usual honey. I think it might have contributed to the darker colour of the bagels, as they were not overdone. The bagels are a bit rustic looking, but they taste great. I downloaded the recipe from the CBC's website after the bagels were a technical challenge on the Great Canadian Baking Show."



Lorraine Fuller went organic with bagels made from 1847 Daily Bread flour.



"European meets Mediterranean ❤️" enthused Tammy Baker Abram, who made both Kasha and Bows (buckwheat onion pasta, above) from the Second Helping cookbook and Zhoug (below: parsley, cilantro, hot peppers, garlic, cumin, cardamom and salt) from the Taste of Israel cookbook. 


Melissa Campbell displayed her "messy, but delicious macaroons," declaring that "they just need a dark chocolate drizzle. Passover: bring it on!"



Lesley Morris made "Banana Blueberry Cake drizzled with a lemon glaze for Passover. So tender and light, big chunks of sweet bananas moist and not full of oil. Gluten- and dairy-free. Would never ever know it’s made with [gluten-free] matzoh."



Lesley also declared she was "getting ready for Shabbat with these gorgeous Challahs."


IMAGES BELOW
  • Top left: Alex Hvmphries also baked some fine challah.
  • Top right: Sherry Murphy made her first-ever try at Levy's Bagels from The Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum, "made from a starter dough with a little butter and malt syrup."
  • Middle left: Elka Weinstein was another worthy challah contributor.
  • Middle right: Melissa Campbell wrote that "isolation was the perfect time for me to perfect my Jewish roots baking."
  • Bottom left: "My favourite go-to is Matzoh Ball soup!" wrote Jane Buckley-Black.
  • Bottom right: Lyle Beaugard managed to observe two festivities at once, writing: "I brined and cooked my first corned beef for St. Patrick's Day, but coincidentally we're talking Jewish food for Passover this month too so..."
Join the Culinary Historians of Canada!



The membership year runs from one annual general meeting (usually late September/early October) to the next. Download a membership form here and join us today! 

2. News and Opportunities


Passover Seder Workshop
Julia Biggs (a.k.a. "History Eats" on social media) is hosting a free online seminar on Thursday, April 1, at 12:30 EDT called A Tasty Experience: Mapping the Multisensory Dimensions of the Passover Seder. She writes that "the Jewish holiday of Passover starts with a Seder, a special meal celebrating the story from Exodus of the Israelites' escape from Egypt. The symbolic Passover foods include the bitter herbs, as a symbol of suffering, and unleavened bread to remember the flight from Egypt." All are welcome; book by emailing with your name and email to foodhistoryseminar@gmail.com.
 

Vegan Charcuterie Workshop
On Thursday, April 22, from 7:00 to 9:00 p.m. PDT, Lesley Morris (a.k.a. The Unscripted Baker) will present a Charcuterie Board Workshop. She writes that "you will be part of a live audience making three different flavours of vegan cheese, salted date butter and spiced nuts utilizing all-local ingredients. You will learn creative food styling placement and how to set and dress your charcuterie board for entertaining. I will introduce you to unique sweet and savoury flavours along with wine-pairing suggestions from local BC wineries. Our special guest will be Dr. Murray Isman, who has served as interim director of the UBC Wine Research Centre." Admission is $22.
 
Disrupting Dinner: African Spices
Studio ATAO and Feast Afrique present a series of cookbook discussions called Disrupting Dinner that focus on one BIPOC-authored (Black, Indigenous, People of Colour) cookbook every three months. During three monthy meetings, participants spend about an hour cooking recipes from the book and a second hour exploring the book's larger themes.

The current book, In Bibi's Kitchen by Hawa Hassan and Julia Turshen, "presents 75 recipes and stories gathered from bibis (grandmothers) from eight African nations: South Africa, Mozambique, Madagascar, Comoros, Tanzania, Kenya, Somalia, and Eritrea. Most notably, these eight countries are at the backbone of the spice trade, many of them exporters of things like pepper and vanilla."

The three upcoming sessions, which start at 3:00 p.m. PDT, will focus on "Spices and Colonialism" (April 10), "Sauces, Language and Appropriation" (May 15) and "Breads, Grains, and Preserving Community" (June 12). Admission is $25 to $50.
 
Sophie Coe Prize: Reminder
The Sophie Coe Prize is awarded each year to an engaging, original piece of writing that delivers new research and/or new insights into any aspect of food history. The administrators welcome entries of up to 10,000 words on any relevant topic. The prize is £1,500 for the winning essay, article or book chapter. Authors may each submit one entry only, and they must be delivered by this year’s closing date of Friday, April 23, 2021. For full details, visit the Sophie Coe Prize website.
 
Indigenous Chefs Series Continues
The University of Minnesota annual conference on Native American Nutrition presents Celebrating Indigenous Women Chefs, a free webinar series that highlights the culinary expertise of Indigenous women through live monthly cooking demonstrations. They take place from noon to 1:15 p.m. CST on the following Tuesdays: April 13, May 11, June 8 and July 13. Past sessions are posted to YouTube.
 
What’s Cooking? (Member News)
CHC MEMBERS: Please let us know what you're up to! We'll publish all suitable news items received at cadmus@interlog.com by the 25th of each month. (Please write your announcement directly into your email window, with no attachments except a photo. Be sure to include a web link for further information!)

CHC Honorary member Pat Crocker writes that she has recently come upon a paper by the Heritage Foundation of Newfoundland and Labrador about a root cellar that has survived since the early- to mid-1800s. As its introduction notes, "The Crocker family root cellar is located in Bradley’s Cove, Conception Bay. It is a rare example of a steeply gabled, stone corbel-vaulted cellar, completely covered in a grassed-over mound of earth, with a ground-level entrance. It is almost two-hundred years old and stands out amidst the barren landscape that surrounds it, the only piece of vernacular architecture remaining in an area that was once a thriving community."

"As a side note," Pat writes, "my father and his siblings were born in Bradley's Cove, which is located in Conception Bay on the western shores of Newfoundland. The Crocker family had emigrated to Newfoundland some time in the 1800s. The root cellar is a fascinating story of survival in the harsh Canadian landscape and I thought that the Culinary Historians might be interested in this account of one rare surviving root cellar."

 

Marmalade Makes Friends

CHC member Cathy Enright writes: "Thank you so much for your marmalade article. My 97-year-old friend and colleague, Joan Meredith, we worked together in the Federal Government, died in January. She had a wonderfully adventuresome life coming to Canada from England and was in fact an editor for Chatelaine magazine. When her friend called to tell me of Joan’s passing, I asked her to send me any recipes she may have. They arrived and along with some shortbread recipes in a very yellowed envelope was the following recipe for Marmalade… I cried. A recipe always touches a Home Economist’s heart. Thank you. C."

3. Destinations



Jean Pierre Roma National Historic Site of Canada
by Jane Black. Photos courtesy Tourism PEI.

Roma at Three Rivers, formally known as Jean Pierre Roma National Historic Site of Canada, is a hidden gem from Canada’s Acadian past. One of the first successful commercial ventures on Prince Edward Island, then called Île Saint-Jean. It was founded in June, 1732, by Jean Pierre Roma at what is now St. Mary’s Bay in the township of Three Rivers.

Born in Bordeaux, France, Roma started La Compagnie de l'Est de I'Île Saint-Jean with two others after receiving permission from King Louis XV. Appointed director of the company, Roma had grandiose plans for an international trade enterprise: cod, wood and beer to the West Indies; molasses and rum from the West Indies to Quebec; and cod to France.

Within his first year at the settlement, however, Roma found himself in conflict with locals such as the priest Abbé Bierne and with his partners back in France who wanted to focus solely on the fish trade. With the first year having incurred financial losses, his partners withdrew their financial assistance.

Roma persevered, however, and by the summer of 1734 the settlement contained five houses, a storehouse, a bakery, a forge, a stable, wells, an ice house and a large food-storage cellar. There were pea and wheat fields, gardens, two piers and several boats as well.

Despite successes that brought praise from local officials in both Île Saint-Jean and Louisbourg, he was unable to persuade his partners to reinvest, and by the spring of 1737 was the sole proprietor of the company. Further misfortune followed. In 1737 the Father Superior of the Récollets at Louisbourg persuaded two of the young ladies brought from France to the settlement to move to Louisbourg. Four men including a cooper (a very necessary tradesman for the settlement) followed the young ladies to Louisburg.

In 1738 the crops were destroyed by a plague of mice, in 1739 fire destroyed buildings and all the livestock, and in 1741 a ship full of cargo was lost. Throughout these misfortunes, however, Roma’s perseverance resulted in the settlement growing and thriving. One of the lasting legacies of Jean Pierre Roma was the establishment of many roadways, some of which still exist today.

The final nail in the coffin for the settlement came on June 20, 1745, when after capturing Louisburg, William Pepperell captured Île Saint-Jean as well. Roma escaped to Quebec, and then in 1957 to Guadeloupe, after which he disappears from historical records.

Very little of the original settlement remains: the original shoreline eroded, but archeological efforts have found some foundation and masonry remains. Designated as a National Historic Site in 1936, the site now contains a partial reconstruction of the original settlement. The main pavilion is a reconstruction of Roma’s home that he shared with his children (it is unclear when or whether his wife joined him at the settlement).

Other recreated buildings include the blacksmith’s forge, dining hall and cookhouse. A more modern professional kitchen is also on site. While not an authentic replication of the settlement (which would endanger the undiscovered archeology of the original site), the buildings are in the style of the time. In addition to the buildings, there are the French gardens: 19 raised beds that provided both food and medicines for settlers.

Nine kilometres of walking trails and picnic areas round out the facilities. A contingent of costumed interpreters, many in roles of indentured servants, help visitors navigate the site. Roma encouraged music and entertainment at the settlement, a tradition that is carried on with some interpreters who demonstrate fiddle music and dancing.

Roma's settlement revolved around cod. Visitors can see and at times participate in preparing ships; jigging for cod; inspecting the shallop (a large sailboat); inspecting and hanging the seine (net); and cleaning, splitting, flaking and salting the fish.



Fish was prominent in the diet, but even more prominent was bread. It is estimated that bread was 60% to 85% of the daily diet amongst the Acadians at this time: it was probably similar for the inhabitants of Roma. Naturally, an essential part of the settlement’s recreation is the outdoor brick and clay oven. Roma’s Soldier Bread is served with molasses in the on-site restaurant, which offers a limited menu with historical dishes such as Acadian Meat Pie and Acadian Fish Cakes with Baked Beans.

The iced herbal tea is prepared with herbs grown on-site in the French Gardens. Desserts include ginger cookies and ginger cake. Visitors can enjoy lunch and heritage afternoon teas daily when Roma is open. Picnic lunches and wood-fired pizzas are available through preorder.

Rounding out the menu, there is also a heritage hot chocolate and chocolate cake, as Jean Pierre Roma brought chocolate to the original site as part of his trading empire. The chocolate is made using a recipe dating back to the 1700s. As such, it contains spices and is said to have invigorating properties. Soldiers leaving Roma were given a provision of chocolate to provide them with robust energy to perform their duties.  A valuable commodity for those who could afford it, chocolate was kept locked up in the bedroom, and only men were able to purchase it. Today the traditional chocolate is available for sale to all on-site in both solid and powdered form.

Roma at Three Rivers is planning to open for the 2021 season from July 1 to September 24. Admission is by donation. This summer, on July 31, August 7 and August 14, in collaboration with the town of Three Rivers, the site will be celebrating the 275th anniversary of Roma’s Great Escape in 1745.  Those able to attend will be able to take in historical re-enactments and a newly commissioned historical musical piece.

4. Food for Thought

Have you missed a book review? You can read reviews from all our past issues online. If you are a CHC member who would like to contribute, please contact Elka Weinstein at elka.weinstein@utoronto.ca or Sarah Hood at sarah@culinaryhistorians.ca.

   
The French Laundry, Per Se by Thomas Keller et al. (Artisan, 2020). Reviewed by Bennett McCardle (pictured above).

This large, heavy, costly, beautifully illustrated cookbook is for you if you love to dream about modern haute cuisine, as served at Thomas Keller's two most famous restaurants: The French Laundry in Napa, California, and "per se" in New York. Both have three Michelin stars and a mountain of praise. 

But it’s also a serious manual for professionals—advanced cooks seeking new techniques and creative inspiration. Not for ordinary daily cooking; its onion soup would take as much time for most cooks as a full dinner. (But you can improve some of your normal techniques with his detailed, clear instructions.)

The French Laundry is widely regarded as one of the USA’s greatest restaurants, and Keller one of its finest chefs. The book recreates the experience of dining at both places, thanks to Keller’s ghostwriter/editors, top American food writer/broadcasters Susie Heller and Michael Ruhlman.

Keller frames the book with his concerns about the world of food in the pandemic. COVID has killed or sickened millions, and has undermined the global economy. His sector—restaurants, their suppliers and staff—are especially hard-hit. But the crisis has also shown “the value of restaurants as a social force. Every single one—from sandwich shops to pizza parlors to chains that employ millions of people to the hundreds of thousands of independent restaurants—is more important than any of us realized.” Restaurants participate in "a web of community and connectivity" that extends far beyond diners sharing a table.

I was reassured to find that this is a serious book about food and food service, not a beautiful slice of food porn. Keller describes how his restaurants work as businesses, introducing his entire food network; his three top chefs talk about themselves as professionals. Then he speaks of “every single person, from the dishwasher to the chef to the woman in Petaluma who makes the cheese and the man who created an oyster farm in Duxbury, Massachusetts, where never an oyster had grown before he grew one, to the accountants and the service staff to the whole team in the garden…”  (Keller, now a Chevalier of France's Legion d'Honneur, was once a teenage dishwasher, so he also offers worthwhile “Lessons of a Dishwasher: The Six Disciplines for Success.")

Then, the recipes: over 70 of them, even more elaborate than those in his earlier The French Laundry Cookbook. Keller’s a perfectionist and wants readers to know exactly how he does it, so they’re not simplified for home cooks.  
As a technical master (in an earlier book he said that his eyes were opened to his ignorance when a chef threw a knife at him for not knowing how to truss a chicken) as well as highly creative, he loves remaking ordinary dishes (Fish and chips! Soft-boiled egg! Brownies!) as new and complex wonders. His stuffed squash is a multi-day marvel.

The food in these recipes is clearly absolutely delicious, but demands too much of most of us at home. (Many other reviewers tell of their struggles to approximate his results.) They’re labour-intensive, require many unusual ingredients and equipment, and produce very small servings.

Few of us except professional chefs will attempt even one of these dishes (I do plan to try the eggplant parmesan, one day…) But the accompanying advice is welcome. On the nature of important ingredients; of techniques to intensify their flavour; on difficult processes you might try; on alternative methods. Want to improve your flavours with a dehydrator, or freezing? He explains how.

As to ingredients... consider just two of the desserts. Keller’s lovely rhubarb custard requires more than 40 ingredients, four of them I wouldn’t know where to buy without his supplied advice. The ganache for Gâteau Marjolaine (a lovely chocolate nut mousse meringue cake) takes glucose syrup, Trimoline invert sugar, and sorbitol. “The Liaisons” covers a shelf-full of thickeners, gelling agents and emulsifiers over and above traditional starches and eggs—Pre-Hy (prehydrated xanthan gum) and iota carrageenan among them.

Lesser barriers to using this oversize book in the ordinary kitchen are the too-small ingredients lists and index (the instructions are however larger). The measurements (provided even for egg yolks) are in grams only.

The book’s many illustrations are stunning colour photos of the finished dishes, restaurants, kitchens, chefs, staff and even raw ingredients. A fennel bulb is spotlit against a black background. A black-and-white sliced beet glows darkly. The tiny perfect servings—like the pool of clam chowder enshrined in a black bowl—would invite derision if Keller didn’t clearly respect his work. 

The book ends with a solemn free-verse poem, including: “Fat, not grease... Porters, not dishwashers… I’m disappointed, not WTF… Profession, not industry." (Less seriously, Keller’s “biyaldi” recipe was the one used as the central McGuffin in that delightful feature cartoon Ratatouille).

Finally, beware, people can lose their heads dining at The French Laundry. In California’s upcoming State election, the Laundry might become one cause of the defeat of State Governor Gavin Newsom. (He, his wife and political advisors from several households partied there last fall—not long after Newsom had specifically asked Californians to stay home except for essential outings. Newsom has been widely pilloried for it.)

More responsible fans of these restaurants can enjoy at least a taste by reading this book. And if you can, as Keller advises, “take your time. Take a long time,” and make even one dish successfully—you should be proud.

Review Contributors
  • Elka Weinstein (CHC book review editor, Toronto)
  • Judy Corser (Delta, British Columbia)
  • Pam Fanjoy (Hillsburgh, Ontario)
  • Luisa Giacometti (Toronto)
  • Gary Gillman (Toronto)
  • Sher Hackwell (Vancouver)
  • Amy Lavender Harris (Toronto)
  • Sarah Hood (Toronto)
  • Frances Latham (Stratford, Ontario)
  • Ivy Lerner-Frank (Montreal)
  • Maya Love (London, Ontario)
  • Fiona Lucas (Toronto)
  • Jan Main (Toronto)
  • Lisette Mallet (Toronto)
  • Bennett McCardle (Toronto)
  • Dana McCauley (Toronto)
  • Dana Moran (Ajax, Ontario)
  • Valerie Sharp
  • Mary Lou Snow (Conception Bay, Newfoundland)
  • Meaghan Van Dyk (Abbotsford, British Columbia)

5. Events of Interest

Compiled by Jane Black, Kesia Kvill, Sarah Hood & Julia Armstrong

With a COVID second wave upon us, all bets are off as to which in-person experiences will be available in the new year. The following sites were open during parts of 2020, and may be admitting visitors in 2021, but check before turning up at the door!

6. International Conferences


Compiled by Kesia Kvill

2021


May 13 to 15 (Online from Guelph, Ontario)
14TH TRIENNIAL CONFERENCE OF THE RURAL WOMEN'S STUDIES ASSOCIATION 
Theme: Kitchen Table Talk to Global Forum
Host: University of Guelph, virtual
Registration: To register, please visit this link
Note: CHC will be presenting four panels during the conference.

May 31 to June 4 (Online)

SIXTH INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION ON FOOD AND DRINK STUDIES
Host: European Institute for Food History and Cultures


June 2 to 5 (Las Cruces, New Mexico)
THE AGRICULTURAL HISTORY SOCIETY ANNUAL MEETING
Theme: Challenging Crops & Climate

June 9 to 15 (online)

JOINT ANNUAL CONFERENCE OF THE CANADIAN ASSOCIATION FOR FOOD STUDIES, SAFN, AFHVS AND ASFS
Theme: JUST FOOD: because it is never just food
Host: The Culinary Institute of America & New York University

June 11 to 14 (Archibald, Ohio) 

ASSOCIATION OF LIVING HISTORY, FARMS AND AGRICULTURAL MUSEUMS ANNUAL CONFERENCE
Theme: Looking Forward…The Next 50 Years
Host: ALHFAM
Note: Will be entirely virtual. Registration opens soon.
 
July 1 to 2 (Marburg, Germany)

INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE “FOOD – MEDIA – SENSES”
Host: Philips-University Marburg and Virtual
 
July 9 to 11 (Oxford, England)

OXFORD FOOD SYMPOSIUM
Theme: Food and Imagination
Host: St. Catherine’s College OR Virtual
 
July 29 to 30 (Vienna, Austria)

INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON CANNED FOOD, HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT
Theme: Canned Food, History and Development
Host: International Research Conference Online

September 7 to 10 (Rome, Italy)

INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION FOR RESEARCH INTO EUROPEAN FOOD HISTORY
Theme: Eating on the Move (19th–21st Centuries)
Host: Roma Tre University

October 28 to 30 (Copenhagen, Denmark)

ELEVENTH INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON FOOD STUDIES
Theme: Making Sense From Taste: Quality, Context, Community
Host: Aarhus University

Note: Blended digital and in-person

2022
May 30 to J
une 1 (Dublin, Ireland)
DUBLIN GASTRONOMY SYMPOSIUM
Theme: Food and Movement

CFP: From March - October 2021
Across the far-flung regions of Canada, a lot is happening in the fields of food and history. This monthly digest is a forum for Canadian culinary historians and enthusiasts to tell each other about their many activities. This is a place for networking and conversation about Canadian culinary history happenings. Each month, Digestible Bits and Bites is shared with members of the Culinary Historians of Canada and other interested persons who ask to be on the distribution list. 
 
The Culinary Historians of Canada would like to share this digest with a wide audience. You are encouraged to post or forward this information. 


Administrivia 

  • To receive their free monthly edition of Digestible Bits and Bites, interested readers need only send a request with their email address to the editor.
  • Past issues of Digestible Bits and Bites are posted on the Culinary Historians of Canada website.
Copyright © 2021 Culinary Historians of Canada, All rights reserved.


unsubscribe from this list    update subscription preferences 

Email Marketing Powered by Mailchimp